Kendwa Beach, Zanzibar

The neighbours

Is Kendwa the best beach in Zanzibar?

It is one of the best for two things the east coast cannot do: swimming at almost any time of day without a tide chart, and a sunset that finishes in the water. Kendwa is Nungwi’s quieter neighbour on the north-west coast — wide white sand, a waterfront without working boats, and most meals at the hotels on the beach. Nungwi, close by on the same coastline, has the fishing harbour, more independent restaurants, more vendors and more energy; going from one to the other is a short tuk-tuk ride or a long beach walk. Whether Kendwa is the best beach depends on what you came for: if it is quiet, sandbanks and slow mornings, the south-east coast is the better answer.

The tide

Why can you swim at Kendwa at low tide?

The defining argument for Kendwa over the east coast — over Paje, Jambiani and Michamvi — is the tide. On the east coast the low tide pulls the water back hundreds of metres twice a day, leaving shallow flats and seagrass. At Kendwa and Nungwi the swing leaves water at the beach, and the sea is swimmable at most hours. That makes the north coast well suited to families with young children, who do not want to wait for the tide to return, and to short stays of three or four nights. One practical note for families: when the afternoon wind picks up, a pool is easier than chop with small children.

Under water

Snorkelling, diving and the Mnemba Atoll

The north coast is the closer start for Mnemba Atoll, the island's best-known reef: boats leave from the north and north-east coast, and from Kendwa the morning is shorter than from the south-east. Expect green turtles, dolphins as a bonus but never a promise, and dense fish life; ask whether the marine park fee is included in the price, and whether the guide will be in the water with you. The reef directly off Kendwa beach is fine for a casual session from shore. Our guide to diving in Zanzibar compares Mnemba with the east-coast reefs and explains what certificate you need.

Logistics

How do you get to Kendwa, and when should you go?

From the airport or Stone Town, Kendwa is a drive north by private car or taxi; agree the fare before you set off, and see our getting-around guide for how taxis work. From Boutique Hotel Matlai on the south-east coast, the cross-island drive takes about two hours. It costs a travelling day but gives you both coasts — the south-east’s quiet and the north’s swimming and sunsets.

The best months are the same as for the rest of the island: the dry Kusi months from June to October, and the warm months from December to February. The long rains, from the end of March to May, bring overcast skies and heavy showers. In the Kusi months the south-east wind blows across the island, and the north-west coast sits in its lee, which often makes Kendwa the calmer side on a windy day. Month by month, our best-time guide has the rest.

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